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Getting Your Lancaster Home's Plumbing Ready for Winter

A frozen pipe is one of the few plumbing problems you can usually prevent. Here is how to get a Lancaster home ready before the cold sets in.

By the Lancaster PA Plumbing Pros team · Updated 2026-09-17.

A burst pipe is the plumbing emergency nobody forgets, water coming through a ceiling at two in the morning while you hunt for the shutoff. The good news is that it is also one of the few plumbing disasters you can usually prevent, because most winter bursts come from freezing, and freezing follows rules. A Lancaster home that gets a little attention before the cold sets in is far less likely to be the one making that call in January.

Lancaster winters are cold enough to freeze an unprotected pipe, and our housing gives the cold plenty of ways in. The old city rowhouses have deep basements, exposed runs and outside walls that were never built with modern insulation. The county homes have crawlspaces, well lines and outdoor spigots. Different houses, same lesson: the water in a pipe that gets cold enough will freeze, and when it freezes it expands with enough force to split the pipe.

Why frozen pipes actually burst

It helps to understand what really happens, because it is not quite what most people picture. Water expands as it freezes, but the burst usually does not happen at the ice itself. As ice forms and grows, it pushes a slug of trapped water down the pipe toward a closed faucet, and the pressure builds in that trapped section until the pipe fails, often somewhere between the ice and the tap rather than at the frozen spot.

The other thing people miss is timing. A frozen pipe often does not leak while it is frozen, because the ice is plugging the hole. The flood comes when it thaws and the water flows again through the split. That is why a pipe that froze overnight can burst the next afternoon when things warm up, and why finding a frozen pipe is a reason to act, not to relax.

The pipes most at risk in Lancaster

Freezing goes after the pipes with the least protection from the home's heat. In practice, the same short list shows up again and again in Lancaster homes, and knowing yours is half the battle.

Where freezing starts in a Lancaster home

The usual suspects, worth checking before winter:

  • Outdoor spigots and the hose bibs on outside walls.
  • Pipes in an unheated basement, crawlspace or garage.
  • Runs along exterior walls with little insulation.
  • Well lines and pressure tanks in county homes.
  • Any pipe in a spot that dropped below freezing last winter.

Older city homes tend to have trouble with exposed basement runs and pipes on outside walls, the legacy of houses built before anyone thought about pipe insulation. County homes more often freeze at the well line, the pressure tank or an outdoor spigot. If a particular pipe froze last winter, it is the first one that will freeze this winter unless something changes, so let past trouble guide where you start.

What actually prevents a freeze

The good news is that prevention is mostly cheap and simple, and it works. Start outside: disconnect and drain garden hoses, shut off and drain the outdoor spigots if you have interior valves for them, and cover the hose bibs. A hose left connected traps water in the spigot that freezes and splits it, and that is one of the most common winter bursts of all.

Inside, insulate the exposed pipe. Foam pipe sleeves on the runs in the basement, crawlspace and garage cost little and make a real difference, and heat tape helps on the spots that freeze despite insulation. Seal the drafts, an open crawlspace vent or a gap where the cold pours in onto a pipe is often the real culprit. And keep the house warmer than feels strictly necessary during a hard freeze, because the heat that keeps you comfortable is also what keeps the pipes in the walls above freezing.

A simple winter prep checklist

Before the first hard freeze, work through these:

  • Disconnect and drain garden hoses, and shut off outdoor spigots.
  • Insulate exposed pipe in the basement, crawlspace and garage.
  • Seal drafts and close crawlspace vents that blow onto pipe.
  • Know where your main water shutoff is, before you need it.
  • In a hard freeze, let a vulnerable faucet drip and keep the heat up.

That last pair is worth dwelling on. On the coldest nights, letting a faucet on a vulnerable run drip a little keeps water moving and relieves the pressure that actually bursts the pipe, and opening the cabinet doors under sinks on outside walls lets house heat reach the pipe. Neither costs anything, and both have saved a lot of pipes on the worst nights of the year.

While you are at it, check two more things

Winter prep is a good moment for two checks that have nothing to do with freezing but everything to do with a comfortable winter. First, the water heater. It works hardest in winter, when incoming water is coldest, and a tank full of hard water sediment struggles most just when you want a hot shower. If yours is rumbling or aging, winter is when it is most likely to quit, so it is worth a look before then rather than after.

Second, if your home has a sump pump, winter storms and thaws still bring groundwater, and a frozen discharge line can back the water right up into the basement. Making sure the pump works and the discharge is clear is part of getting ready for the season. Both of these are small checks now that head off a cold snap emergency later.

If a pipe freezes or bursts anyway

Sometimes a pipe freezes despite everything. If you turn on a tap in a cold snap and only a trickle comes out, you may have a freeze starting. Open the faucet, so melting water can flow and relieve pressure, and gently warm the pipe if you can reach it, with a hair dryer or towels, never an open flame. Do not walk away from it, because the danger is the thaw.

If a pipe does burst, the response is simple and it is the same one that matters most in any water emergency: get the water off. Shut the failing fixture's valve if you can reach it, otherwise the main shutoff where the water enters the house, then open a low faucet to drain the pressure. Then call. A burst pipe is a true emergency, the kind answered around the clock, and stopping the water is what decides how much of the house you have to dry out afterward.

Common questions

At what temperature do pipes freeze?

There is no single number, but the risk rises sharply once the air around a pipe drops below freezing and stays there. Exposed pipes in unheated spaces and on outside walls are most at risk, which is why insulation and keeping the heat up matter most on the coldest nights.

Should I leave a faucet dripping in a cold snap?

On a vulnerable run, yes. A slow drip keeps water moving and relieves the pressure that actually bursts a pipe, which is often what saves it. Focus on faucets fed by pipe in unheated spaces or along outside walls, and pair it with keeping the heat up.

Why did my pipe burst when it thawed, not when it froze?

Because while the pipe is frozen, the ice plugs the split. The water only flows out through the crack once it thaws, so the flood comes on the warm up. That is why a frozen pipe is a reason to act right away rather than wait for it to thaw on its own.

What is the first thing to do if a pipe bursts?

Get the water off, at the fixture valve if you can reach it, otherwise the main shutoff, then open a low faucet to drain the pressure. Then call the emergency line. Stopping the water is what limits the damage, and it is the same move in any water emergency.

None of this is complicated, and most of it is an afternoon's work with cheap materials. The homes that make the two in the morning call are almost always the ones where the hose was left on, the crawlspace vent was open, or the exposed pipe was never insulated. A little attention before the cold arrives is what keeps your Lancaster home off that list.

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